How do I select the right frame size before I have it fitted by you. Thank you, Richard

Great to hear from you. You are correct about the right size frame. There are two ways to go about this process.

The first option is to head to the local bike shop selling the brand and kind of bike you like, then have them size you up. Most brands have a sizing system that will get you close. Then I can take care of the details later. Just make sure the type of bike suits what you want and what you need. I.e. race, recreation, gravel, touring, MTB or so forth. If you end up on the wrong type of bike, that is not helpful and makes my job harder. Please note the colour and specifications of the bike also are important. Try to buy what you really love, this will help you want to ride even on the darkest, coldest mornings.

The second option is to come in for a frame fitting service with me. This includes all the details of a full bike fitting without the final setup of the bike. Instead we use the Size Cycle to determine a solid position that reflects your ability and your expectations. While using the Size Cycle we can mimic the geometry offered by the bikes your are thinking about buying to triple check your position will suit the setup and vice versa. Then you can buy the bike and bring it back in for a tweak. Often the bike shop can get it close, but I will look after the details.

Bike Fit Information

Disclaimer: 

Your Fusion Peak Bicycle Fit needs to be followed by three weeks of easy riding. No racing or heavy loads during this (three week) time. This is so your body can adapt to your new position safely and comfortably. If you have an event coming up it may be a good idea to wait for your fitting until after it is over.

Cost:

$440.00  – allow for a 2 to 3 hour session to begin, and an hour to hour and a half for the second

I charge my standard fit rate for the two sessions

Session One:

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Coffee:

Don’t panic, it’s organic, please let me know if you are a tea person and I will boil the billy.

Interview:

We will discuss your past, current and future cycling goals and ambitions, state of fitness and any relevant injuries or sports history.

Pelvic Tilt Assessment & Adjustment:

To help begin the bike fit with the best symmetry as possible.

Spinal Mobilization, Nervous System Check and Re-Boot:

To help your body have the greatest possible proprioception and muscular coordination.

Flexibility testing:

To determine your bodies current and natural range of motion.

Stability testing:

To determine your bodies stability and ability.

Foot analysis:

To determine cleat placement and any shim, shoe or insole requirements.

Size Cycle Position Creation:

Measuring each aspect of your body’s position relative to the contact points (pedals, saddle and bars) to ensure a smooth, balanced, comfortable and powerful cycling position.

Size Cycle + New Bike CAD Files:

A PDF file of your new position and a CAD file to help determine the best new bike for you.

What to Bring:

  • Cycling knicks, jersey, shoes, helmet, sunglasses and gloves; what you would typically wear on a ride
  • Cycling Shoes/pedals and cleats (if you have them)
  • Orthotics if you have them for any of your shoes
  • Food; eat ahead or bring along a snack, you will be riding and will need energy
  • Water bottle, please ensure you are well hydrated when you arrive
  • Jumper or something warm to wear when you cool down

Session Two:

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

New Bike Fit:

Fitting up your new bike; from rough speck to polishing the fine details of all your contact points, shoes and cleats, handlebars and hoods, and saddle. Making sure you are as comfortable, efficient and smooth on your new ride.

New Bike CAD File:

A PDF file of your position on your new bike.

What to Bring:

  • New Bike and any parts we have specified
  • Cycling knicks, jersey, shoes, helmet, sunglasses and gloves; what you would typically wear on a ride
  • New Cycling shoes if you bought some
  • Orthotics if you have them for any of your shoes
  • Food; eat ahead or bring along a snack, you will be riding and will need energy
  • Water bottle, please ensure you are well hydrated when you arrive
  • Jumper or something warm to wear when you cool down

 

How do I know when my saddle is too high? Cheers, Adam

Saddle height is a balance between leg extension and stability. Here are some feelings or signs that your saddle is too high.

  1. You are rocking from side to side on the saddle. This is a case where you could be reaching for power at the bottom of the pedal stroke on both sides. If you rock from side to side, it can lead to lower back fatigue and discomfort. Once the lumbar spine stops supporting the torso due to pain and or fatigue the entire core will suffer and loose support as well.
  2. You are dropping one hip. This can happen when you have a difference in leg length. The leg length may be mechanical (bones) or functional (muscles and connective tissue). Either way if you are dropping a hip out could be the the saddle is too high for the challenged side. This type of fit issue can be helped with saddle height and sometimes a shim under the cleat.
  3. You are riding like a ballerina with toes pointed down too far. Toe down pedalling is normal and should not be looked at as an issue unless it is caused by the saddle being too high. You may feel a sense that the pedals are just slightly too far away, this is made more obvious by effort. The higher the effort the harder it can be to make power through the entire stroke.
  4. You are not able to corner safely or effectively. When riding the bike there are times when we are not pedalling. This can be when cornering. If you are not able to effectively lift your body’s weight off the saddle to center your gravity through the outside pedal, you may be too high. In this case the analysis is static and not dynamic, meaning there is some balance needed with the leg extension while pedalling as well as posturing. I feel a dropper seat post can help here.
  5. Your hamstrings feel like they are being stretched at the bottom of the stroke. As the hamstring extends it eventually looses eccentric control and allows the knee to accelerate. Its’ job at this point to act eccentrically to the quads. Once the force ends, the quads pull through uninhibited until the bottom of the stroke is reached and the direction of the leg extension is reversed.
  6. You are feeling sore behind the knee. If the calf muscles could be extending past their ability to lengthen and create force and they may be passing on the forces into the attachment point behind the knee. This is linked to toe pointing and the natural point of your toe needs to be including in assessing this.

At the end of the ride, you need to feel solid. Super solid. If there is any doubt that under load your body starts to feel anything above, then there is a good chance a drop in saddle height can help. Tiny changes are best and record your thoughts and feelings to learn what is best and why.

Mark it with a white-out pen and forget it. Just enjoy the ride.

 

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